Archive for May, 2005

body surfin’

May 31, 2005

Yesterday we went to the beach for a few hours.

We saw a pufferfish on the beach, spines like large needles tucked demurely along it’s body. While it had puffed it’s last puff, it was in great shape – over a foot long and the size of a big squash. It was ignored by all but us non-locals who found it exotic, as it lay there among sunbather’s towels.

The waves were the biggest we’ve played in yet. Once you cleared the tumblezone the water would be to the middle of your chest. When a wave was coming in, it would drop and then the wave would arrive. You push off the bottom and as the wave lifts you up, you rise a good 6 feet up.

The water can be dangerous though, you need to be the right distance out from the shore. The tumblezone is what I call the spread of water where the waves break. As they come in the top falls forward and a bulge of water becomes a wall. Small ones will just give you a shove, but if a big one hits you, it’s tumble time.

The locals and long-timers can bodysurf these waves no problem, and they do it with style. It’s a pretty short ride, maybe 15 feet usually but they have all the style of an ice skater taking a long stride. One arm is extended, and they actually go sideways along the wave, just like a surfer does. Some of ‘em even do rolls while they’re surfing in a wave.

I’ve been working on it and I’ve never done well yet, but yesterday I nailed it, just once. No style, just swimming to stay on the right side of the wave, but it took me all the way in to shore, and moving fast. Good times.

Have a great week.


star wars

May 19, 2005

Headed to bed 5 hours later than usual last night, after going to the Star Wars III opening at the local theatre.

The movie did a truly excellent job of piecing the story together and connecting the dots with all the other movies, but didn’t blow me out of my seat.

I called a few acquaintances here but ended up watching it alone. I haven’t made any friends here yet, and the opportunities are limited because I’m home all day.

I am going going back to judo tonight though, which will be a great combo of physical excercise with social stuff.

It’s been raining for a couple days now here. Driving down from our house you can actually see erosion happening, as the hill is carried down into the valley. Neat to see.

flying snakes

May 15, 2005

Not really about Hawaii, but I’m tired of posting to two blogs (I’ve been trying to keep going as well… going to consolidate my efforts here people)

Filed in the Whoah That’s Cool file: Wanna see a snake jump off a building and then change direction in mid-air?

choppers circling

May 2, 2005

Today a couple helicopters were circling all over the valley. Grant suggested I run outside and gesture irritatedly, “I’m on the PHONE!”

Can you circle later?

My guess since there were two and they were repeating patterns is that they were filming something. Maybe for that hit TV series Lost… Evgenya and I have watched episodes 1-4 and it’s entertaining enough. I wish they’d just show us the monster though. :)