body surfin’

Yesterday we went to the beach for a few hours.

We saw a pufferfish on the beach, spines like large needles tucked demurely along it’s body. While it had puffed it’s last puff, it was in great shape – over a foot long and the size of a big squash. It was ignored by all but us non-locals who found it exotic, as it lay there among sunbather’s towels.

The waves were the biggest we’ve played in yet. Once you cleared the tumblezone the water would be to the middle of your chest. When a wave was coming in, it would drop and then the wave would arrive. You push off the bottom and as the wave lifts you up, you rise a good 6 feet up.

The water can be dangerous though, you need to be the right distance out from the shore. The tumblezone is what I call the spread of water where the waves break. As they come in the top falls forward and a bulge of water becomes a wall. Small ones will just give you a shove, but if a big one hits you, it’s tumble time.

The locals and long-timers can bodysurf these waves no problem, and they do it with style. It’s a pretty short ride, maybe 15 feet usually but they have all the style of an ice skater taking a long stride. One arm is extended, and they actually go sideways along the wave, just like a surfer does. Some of ‘em even do rolls while they’re surfing in a wave.

I’ve been working on it and I’ve never done well yet, but yesterday I nailed it, just once. No style, just swimming to stay on the right side of the wave, but it took me all the way in to shore, and moving fast. Good times.

Have a great week.


One Comment on “body surfin’

  1. Hey LucasWow congrats on your sseccus with your first WSO. That’s amazing.Lucas and I have chatted a few times and he is one of the most aggressive action takers I have seen in a while. He literally learns one new topic and implements it right away. Then he repeats the process again and again. I appreciate the kind words and keep us up to date on your progress!

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